Best Place for Temp Sensor for Electric Fan?
Ok, I've got a 305 V8 that had a physics fan, but the PO connected an exciting fan through a toggle in the cabin. I'm not holding that. I'll forget to turn off it on.
I bought a JEGs thermostatically controlled winnow controller and I be after to install that. It uses a sensing element that togs into a 3/8 port with a 3/4 adapter. The only ports on my motor are already in function for the temp gauge and hummer hose.
Today I picked finished a eccentric T-stat housing on Chlorine that has a 3/4 port and the back of it. I also picked upbound an aluminium water pump from the aforementioned guy. when I got home I realized that the pump has two 3/4 ports on it too. One is for the heater hose, the other is not in manipulation.
Could I mount the coolant temp sensor for the winnow and head off the supernatural housing, or does the sensor need to be mounted up top?
I ran one in the unused pipage-threaded hole out at the stake of the passenger-side head.
Except the headers kept cookery it.
Under the thermostat housing, like you show, would be finely.
Higher up the thermoregulator (every bit per all but housings in 70's-up Chevy's) would bring off too, since ~theoretically~ the thermostat would be opening before the fan turns on. Except if the thermoregulator doesn't open, and you'll get no fan.
Course the on/off switch in parallel, thusly you can over-ride the thermostatic switch if you needed to.
I'm intelligent, if you rib into the pump, you'd be acquiring "cold" coolant from the rad. Which I guess the fan would insure the coolant advent out of the rad would Be truly cold adequate.
The most important thing is to try to capture the hottest temperature of the coolant, so that it kicks on before the engine overheats.
snailmont5oh wrote: The most important thing is to try to capture the hottest temperature of the coolant, so that it kicks on *ahead* the railway locomotive overheats.
Actually spell that's the best way to install a temperature gauge sensor, for a fan transposition, I think the best location is the radiator pass. The purpose of the fan is to boost airflow through the radiator if it's non reducing coolant temperature sufficiently. This location responds to the airflow through and through the radiator while the hottest point in the coolant system (usually right where the coolant exits the engine to run along to the radiator) doesn't.
I put the fan switch sensor on my Samurai on the radiator exit, adjusted information technology indeed that it kicks in when the coolant temperature juuust edges preceding normal (when loafing while parked), and IT seems to go well.
RossD UltimaDork
1/9/17 3:40 p.m.
In reply to GameboyRMH:
In terms of a well pressurised system, I trust this is the best solution. Feedback before other noise is introduced.
My choices are thermostat housing or water pump, I Don River't have an acceptable port on the radiator itself. For packaging, i'd rather have information technology in the ticker itself.
Urine pump is a bad spot, IMO unless you bottom get it right at the return port from the rad. T-stat housing (or a tee in the upper radian hose) is better. A fitting in the lower rad hose would work too.
Get a radiator temp sensor sleeve. It's not actually called that. But it's what I use. Just use the top radiator hose. Put the sleeve near the thermostat. https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Temperature-Sensor-Adapter-Silver/dp/B00FY3A2PG
I would say the temporary evaluation of the switch will dictate the best location. A low rated switch would make the lover always be on if settled in coolant going to the rad, and wouldn't plough on until you'Ra already hot if information technology's a high temp rated switch along the rad outlet.
Thinking about it, the factory e-fan switches in my Jeep are an interesting study in this. It used 2 switches, some activate at 210*. One is in the upper rad hose and turns the lover connected "low". The second is in the lower rad hose and turns the fan connected "senior high". That ordinarily equates to about 210 - 212 on the gauge when down kicks connected and astir 220 - 225 when high kicks connected.
pirate ship Reader
1/10/17 12:35 p.m.
I take over my fan sensor in a billet aluminum radiator hose connector with a fitting hole in the bottom radiator return hose. The sensor turns the fan on and off but I possess also wired a a sensing element overide indeed that I can turn the buff on and off manually. To make this work you need a land wire so I bareheaded the terra firma conducting wire and inserted it 'tween the billet aluminum connector and radiator hose. When hosiery clamped it is secure, tight and doesn't leak. Some radiators have a just hole next to the radiator drain which could also be used for the sensor. Don't have sex for sure but I call back OEMs purpose this fitting hole for electric fans.
I have my water temperature gauge sensing element (electrical gauges) in a trying on hole at the front of the uptake manifold which is probably the arena of most coolant heat. Few cylinder heads also have fitting holes for gauge temperature.
Well, here's where it aroused. in the parvenue weird thermostat caparison just ahead the thermostat itself.
The switch is a 180 degree and wish be paired with a 180 t-stat. I'm waiting happening some hoses and gaskets earlier I invest it on the car, but it's set to go.
180 degree electrical switch is too ice-cold for a 180 t-stat. Fan will quetch on when it's warm and ne'er shut off. You ideally want a switch that turns on around 195 - 200, murder about 5 degrees lour. That'll kick the winnow on when the t-stat reaches to the full explicit and winking information technology off when things cool a bite (so the fan will cycle piece sitting nonetheless and normally North Korean won't run on the highway).
It's really 185 on, 170 off. Says it's planned for use with a 180 T-stat.
AClockworkGarage wrote: Information technology's actually 185 on, 170 off. Says it's designed for use with a 180 T-stat.
Yea, that's definitely besides cold. It'll kick happening once the car is warmed upwards and then just remain. You'll never get down to the 170 shut up off point. Don't block, the t-stat starts to open at 180, it's not to the full open until about 195.
My analog system used an Auto Meter temperature switch, which was actually for an oil temp light. It turned on at 210° and off at 185°. The switch was on the reason side of the relay, and I had a separate ground path through a manual flip so that I could force the devotee connected for high ignite-dowse situations (90° autocross days), but temporary worker would reverse it on if I forgot, or in normal situations.
Best Place for Temp Sensor for Electric Fan?
Source: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/where-does-my-fan-sensor-go/125354/page1/
